BODY STYLE COMPARISONS
Reprinted with permission
Judy Horton - Worldwide Boxer

Below is a series of drawing based on the drawing taken from the Body page. I have modified each drawing to represent different styles of Boxers you will see in the show ring today.

Dog 1 The original drawing This dog is very well balanced and should reach out well in front and have powerful rear drive.

Dog 2 In this drawing I have modified the front giving him more forechest. His balance is affected slightly but he should reach out well in front and have powerful rear drive.

Dog 3 This dog is similar to the last dog - but he is what is termed "pouter pidgen chested" cutting away sharply. He does not have the smoothly curving ribcage that gives plenty of heart room. This will not affect his reach and drive as he is still well balanced.

Dog 4 This dog has a fuller, deeper forechest and a longer upper arm. He looks loaded in front and out of balance. He may use rotary action in the rear to compensate for his long forward reach.

Dog 5 This dog has a very good front but he is longer in the second thigh. His action will be uncoordinated and he will lack drive.		Dog 6 This dog has a short upper arm, but his shoulderblade is well laid back and of correct length. He is what is termed "Terrier Fronted". As his second thigh is long, his movement will also be uncoordinated. He will short-step in the front and his rear will lack drive. He can look to be light on his feet and "Hover" as his front legs try to coordinate with his rear.
Dog 7 This dog's front legs and rear pasterns are too long. He looks to be stylish and more elegant than dogs 1, 2 and 3 above, but he is off type. He will cover a lot more ground when moving than the correct Boxer, but the standard asks for length of leg and depth of body to be equal. His long front legs make his body "off square" and his back overshort.		Dog 8 This dog's front legs are too short and he has "Leg-O-Mutton" hindquarters and has a narrow second thigh. He looks strong and powerful but he is also off type. His short front legs make his body "off square" and his back long.

Dog 9 This dog's shoulderblade and upperarm are shorter and straighter. His rear is strong but he is out of balance. He will lift his front feet when moving to compensate for his strong driving rear.

Dog 10 This dog also has a short upper arm, and his shoulderblade is even more upright. This creates an abrupt angle where the neck meets the withers and a longer back. His rear is a little straighter but his angulation balances his front. His movement will be coordinated but he will not reach out in front or drive as well in the rear as Dog 1,2,or 3.

Dog 11 This dog also has a short upper arm, and his shoulderblade is more upright. This takes away the smooth transition from neck into withers and creates wrinkles over the shoulders. His rear is stronger and well angulated so he will lift his front feet (padding) to compensate.

Dog 12 This dog has a short upper arm and drops away behind the tail (short pelvis). He also lacks width of first and second thigh. His movement will look coordinated but without any power.

Dog 13 This dog is upright in shoulder, has a short upper arm, long back, long loin and weak rear quarters. As his poor front is in balance with his poor rear and his back is longer he may look to be covering ground, but it will be just an illusion as he will have insufficent forward reach or rear drive.

Dog 14 This dog has the same type of front to Dog 11. He has a shorter back but with a short ribcage and is what is termed "Herring-Gutted". He also has a steeper croup. He will move his rear more under himself and lack any rear thrust.